MRD.HRSolutions-Architraves

 

 

 

When selecting skirting boards, the thickness should generally match the existing door architraves.
 

The skirting and door architraves should have the same thickness so that during installation there’s no unevenness or step between the door frame and the skirting.

 

In other words, they will sit flush on the same plane, creating a seamless and professional finish.

 

 

 

Our answer: No.

Here’s why:

 

During installation, we need to nail the skirting boards, which leaves nail holes. All corners and nail holes must then be patched. The top edge of the skirting also requires gap filler, and finally, the patched areas need to be sanded.

 

If the skirting is painted beforehand, the process becomes problematic. Sanding after installation will damage the original paint surface.

 

If you only touch up the patched areas after installation, each skirting board will lack a uniform finish, and it’s very easy to see uneven shading across the boards.
(The number of paint layers directly affects the consistency and overall appearance of the final finish.)

 

 

 

In theory, it is possible. However, the final result is often counterproductive.

Forcing the skirting boards onto an uneven wall causes the gap at the top where the skirting meets the wall to vary significantly according to the wall’s irregularities. If this gap exceeds 5mm, it can actually accentuate the wall’s bulges. Moreover, gaps larger than 5mm are prone to cracking over time.

 

 

 

Based on our experience:

• For a newly built house, the ground floor typically has around 80–100 meters of skirting, while the first floor usually has about 100–130 meters.

You can also roughly estimate your skirting length based on your floor area. For example:

• A house with approximately 180 m² of flooring would likely have around 100–120 meters of skirting.

• For 100 m² of flooring, the skirting would be roughly 60–80 meters.

Of course, we offer free on-site measurement to determine the exact length. All estimates are approximate, and the final measurement will be based on actual site conditions.

 

 

 

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If you are replacing old skirting boards, it’s important to consider the height carefully. The top of the old skirting will often have a gap filler mark, so you should choose a new skirting board that extends above this mark to ensure a clean finish.

 

For new homes, if you simply want taller skirting, our recommendation is: when the ceiling height is no more than 3 metres, choose a skirting height between 67mm and 110mm. This proportion creates a balanced and aesthetically pleasing look.

 

 

 

When it comes to skirting and architrave painting, there are three main considerations:

 

Oil-Based vs Water-Based:
The choice between oil-based and water-based paint can generally be guided by the type of paint used on your door architraves.

From our experience, oil-based paints produce a richer, more polished finish, especially with high-gloss sheen levels. However, they also have some drawbacks:

After application, the odor can linger in your home for at least 7 days, making it unsuitable if you plan to move in quickly — particularly for families with young children.

Over time, oil-based paints may oxidize, which can cause the colour to yellow slightly.

 

​Important: When painting over existing skirting boards, it’s essential to know whether the old paint is oil-based or water-based. Water-based paint cannot be applied over old oil-based paint. Even with an oil-based primer, water-based paint may still peel. On the other hand, oil-based paint can be applied over old water-based paint without issues.

 

Sheen Level:
The sheen level should be consistent throughout the house, and is usually selected to match your existing door architraves.

 

Colour Choice:
Similarly, the colour should be uniform throughout the home, typically matching the colour of the door architraves.

 

 

 

In Australia, due to movement in timber structures and the strong indoor sunlight, special care must be taken when installing skirting at external corners. It’s essential that the two skirting boards are reinforced at the corner.

 

This can be done by either:

Nailing the two boards together, or

Applying adhesive between the two boards (specifically along the 45° inner cut).

 

Even if patching is done before painting, any gap larger than 3mm after fixing will still look unattractive and is more likely to crack over time.

 

We guarantee that all external corners are installed flush, with maximum gaps no greater than 1mm, ensuring both a perfect finish and long-term durability.

 

 

 

Based on our experience:

 

For a typical two-storey new home with approximately 220m of skirting boards, the complete installation usually takes 10–14 days.

 

​For a single-storey home (around 80–100m of skirting boards), the installation generally takes 4–6 days.

 

Please note: The exact timeline may vary depending on the complexity of the project and site conditions.

 

 

 

If you want skirting boards with a clear lacquer finish, you must choose oak timber. Naturally, this comes with a significantly higher cost due to the material itself, installation, and finishing.

 

For painted white skirting, you’ll generally choose between MDF and Pine.

 

I can say with confidence that both MDF and Pine are essentially one-time-use materials — once removed, they generally cannot be reused. Although Google may suggest that Pine can theoretically be reused, in practice this rarely works.

 

So, what’s the real difference between MDF and Pine?

 

From my experience:

Both are similarly vulnerable to water damage, but MDF shows minor water damage more quickly, making it less durable in light exposure scenarios. For severe water damage (e.g., flooding), both materials will show damage and need replacement.

 

In terms of environmental impact, Pine is superior to MDF because MDF contains a significant amount of glue.

 

Cost-wise, Pine is usually 2–3 times more expensive than MDF, so the choice ultimately depends on the client’s preference and budget.

Regarding sizes:

 

MDF is commonly available in 12mm, 15mm, and 18mm thicknesses.

Pine is usually available in 11mm and 18mm.

 

Don’t worry — a 1mm difference can easily be managed during installation.
 

 

 

 

Our answer: Never cut internal corners at 45°. All internal corners should be installed using the scribe method.

 

In Australia, due to the nature of wall construction, walls are rarely perfectly vertical, especially at internal corners. Even if the corner is theoretically 90°, the two walls may not meet perfectly. A 45° cut cannot achieve a seamless corner.

 

If large gaps appear at internal corners and are later filled only with gap filler, over time these gaps are likely to crack due to natural movement in the timber structure.

 

Using the scribe method, these issues are completely avoided. After fixing, your skirting boards will sit almost perfectly flush.

 

We guarantee that all internal corners are installed using the scribe method, with boards naturally fitting together and maximum gaps no greater than 1mm.

 

 

 

To evaluate whether a skirting installation is truly perfect, consider the following points:

 

Material Selection – The installer should communicate fully with the homeowner about sizes and styles, offer professional advice, and reach a mutual agreement.

 

Fixing Stage – All internal and external corners should fit naturally flush, with gaps around 1mm or less considered acceptable.

 

Reinforced External Corners – External corners must be reinforced during installation. If not, this is considered a construction error.

 

Painting Finish – After painting, the surface should be smooth and dust-free, with full, even colour, no visible brush marks from 1 metre distance, and no paint on walls or floors.

 

Inspection – During final inspection, there should be no visible patching marks from 1 metre distance. All joins should be completely flush, with no noticeable gaps.

 

Overall Continuity – The skirting should feel seamless and coherent, not segmented or disjointed.

 

 

 

There are many different skirting styles to choose from. Common profiles include Single Bevel, Bullnose, Colonial, and more.

 

The specific skirting profile should generally complement the style of your door architraves.

 

Of course, if you have your own preference for a particular skirting style, we can provide a wide range of options. Once you make your choice, we will source and install the skirting to match your selection.

 

 

 

Our recommendation: No, it’s generally unnecessary to mask the entire area. Only small sections around corners should be masked for protection.

Here’s why:

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Masking tape can potentially damage the walls.

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It doesn’t guarantee 100% protection against paint reaching the floor or walls. In our experience, masking the entire area can actually increase the likelihood of paint getting on the floor, because the tape isn’t removed immediately, and any paint drips may go unnoticed until it’s too late.

 

Therefore, we advise avoiding full-area masking.

We ensure that without extensive masking, paint will stay within the skirting boards, leaving walls and floors clean and free of stains.
 

 

 

 

There will definitely be gaps, because skirting boards are not designed to fix uneven floors.

 

Floor leveling should be addressed before the flooring is installed, typically by the flooring contractor using self-leveling compounds or sanding.

 

It’s important to note that floor level is a prerequisite for proper flooring installation. If the floor is uneven, it means the flooring contractor did not level it correctly, and this can void your flooring warranty.